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Center stone settings

Many gemstones, mainly precious stones, are used as center stones in jewelry, including diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.The diamond engagement ring is one of the most commonly seen designs in which a diamond is set as the center stone.In this article, I would like to talk about how to set the center stone.


Basically, when a gemstone is set in a piece of jewelry such as a ring or necklace, it is held in place by the precious metal used to hold it in place.We call the precious metal that holds the gemstone in place a “claw”.When actually fastening the center stone, the precious metal claw is tipped with considerable force.This process of fastening the center stone with the claw is one of the most nerve-wracking among the many jewelry-making processes.


The gemstone must not come off, and it must be firmly fixed horizontally and in the center.Above all, depending on the crystalline structure of the gemstone, there is no guarantee that the gemstone will not chip when subjected to force. I can only bow down to the craftsmen who casually fasten unique and expensive gemstones on a daily basis.The work of a first-rate craftsman does not end with simply fastening the claws neatly.After clasping, the claws are shaped beautifully.  


By keeping the claws to the minimum size that will maintain their strength, more of the gemstone’s surface is revealed, and by shaping them beautifully, the jewelry as a whole is made more beautiful. When looking at a piece of jewelry, we tend to focus first on the beauty of the gemstone, but we should also look at the delicacy, shape, and symmetry of the claws that hold it securely in place to enhance its beauty for many years to come.


Hitoshi Okura